Carlos loves Italian food. Originally from Peru, he now lives in Spain; he adores Venice where he often spends his holidays.
Here, alongside chef Daniele Turco, people not only cook, but they also make an early start to the day shopping at the Rialto market where the atmosphere, the sounds and the colours are still those of olden days.
After selecting seasonal ingredients from the market stalls, it is time to get down to work. “My aim is to enhance the freshness of the vegetable and the fish,” the chef explains.
The attendees prepare three dishes, and then, having received valuable advice, suggestions and professional secrets, it is time to sit down to enjoy their delicious meal.
Shoppers at the Rialto market also include Monica and Arianna, who organise courses in home cooking for tourists. Groups of no more than ten people learn traditional Venetian cooking in a historic palazzo in Dorsodura, including tasting local wines.
Finally, the best cookery course for those who want to learn how to make perfect stewed cuttlefish with polenta is the one held by the cooks of the historic Ai Assassini restaurant, behind the opera house, La Fenice.
There is another Venetian treasure hidden in the Rialto area: the traditional bacari, bars that throughout the day serve the typical cicchetti, nibbles and bite-size portions of food that are now known as finger food.
Indeed for stall holders and market workers, the day starts before dawn, and by mid-morning they are ready for a boost with these small specialities and an ombra of wine.
The perfect place for it is Naranzaria, which is famous for its baccalà to be enjoyed at its low tables on the sides of the Grand Canal. Close by Cantina Do Mori, in the Calle of the same name, is an institution; its boiled eggs with green sauce alone are worth the trip.
From stewed cuttlefish served with a rectangle of polenta to creamed codfish, including fishcakes and meatballs, chef Toni's imagination has ample margin for manoeuvre at Sepa, a cicchetteria in Calle della Bissa.
One of the joys of Venice are the traditional bacari in the Rialto area serving typical cicchetti at all times of day
“Here we have a great passion for tradition, but also an eye for contemporary taste and every day we have a different risotto on the menu,” Fabio, owner and fisherman, explains.
From Rialto, it is lovely to walk down the Calli to Saint Mark's square, perhaps to enjoy an aperitif as the sun sets, seated at a table in the square as the live orchestra plays.
Homepage and pag 1 © Andrea Radic
Venice, Paolo Baratta's Biennale
“A place where people come together and are enriched by the experience”. Paolo Baratta discusses the 16th International Architecture Exhibition
The Dancing with myself exhibition in Venice
The Punta della Dogana holds a reflection on the representation of the self. On show are works by artists like Cattelan, Fischer and Hirst